Description
Turns 1 and 2
- The Entry: Fly down the long front straightaway right next to the outside wall. Look for the start of the inside curb or the overhead flagstand as your braking marker. Brake heavily in a straight line (up to 70%–80% pressure initially), then smoothly taper off the brake pressure (trail braking) as you turn the wheel left.
- The Center: Arc the car down so your left-side tires are glued directly against the inside concrete curb. You want to coast or hold a minimal 10%–15% maintenance throttle through the center. Let the car rotate naturally on the concrete. Rushing the throttle here will ruin your lateral grip.
- The Exit: Wait until the car passes the center apex point of the curb. As the nose begins to point straight down the backstretch, start unwinding the steering wheel. Only when your hands are straight should you roll smoothly into 100% throttle, letting the car drift out to the outside wall.
- The Entry: Turns 3 and 4 look identical but often feel different due to rubber build-up and the pit road entry wall. Keep the car straight and square up the entry. Avoid turning in too early; “clipping” the curb early in Turn 3 will force the car to push wide in the center, ruining your exit speed.
- The Center: Hook the concrete curb late in the turn. The transition from the asphalt straightaway to the concrete corner can sometimes upset the chassis. Keep your steering inputs steady and let the nose hug the bottom line.
- The Exit: Prioritize your drive off Turn 4. Since the front stretch is your main passing zone, a planted rear end off Turn 4 is critical. If the rear tires start spinning or sliding sideways, ease off the gas slightly, straighten the wheel, and gather the traction back up.
- Master the Throttle Roll: Treat the throttle pedal like an eggshell. Never “stomp” on it. Use a distinct two-stage throttle process: roll into 50% power to transfer the weight onto the rear tires, pause for a split second until you feel the rear end plant, then squeeze down to 100%.
- Brake Bias Adjustment: If the rear end feels like it wants to spin out the moment you touch the brakes on entry, your brake bias is too far back. Click your brake bias forward (increase the percentage). This stabilizes the rear under heavy braking, letting you focus entirely on hitting your turn-in marks.
- Avoid the Curbing: While you want your tires right next to the inside concrete curb, do not actually climb or strike the curb. Bumping the curb will launch the left side of the car, completely unloading the right-rear tire and causing a sudden, uncontrollable snap-loose condition on exit.
- Lower the Rear Track Bar: Dropping the track bar (especially the right side) lowers the rear roll center. This keeps the back of the car flat and stable when you lay down the power.
- Increase Crossweight (Wedge): Adding wedge shifts weight to the Left-Rear and Right-Front, which directly counters a loose-on-exit condition.
- Soften the Rear Springs: If the car feels too rigid and skittish over the asphalt-to-concrete transitions, softening the rear springs will allow the rear chassis to squat and absorb the track surface changes more smoothly.
Race Setup
A balanced, race-ready LMSC setup built for versatility, predictable rotation, and strong forward drive across multiple racing grooves.
The race setup is designed and taken into account for the fact that Martinsville Speedway is a precision track. The car must stay perfectly balanced, perfectly straight, and perfectly planted. The teams that win here build setups that minimize drag, maximize platform stability, and give the driver confidence to attack the tricky bumps in the surface.
Qualifying Setup
A faster, more aggressive setup designed to maximize the grip to deliver the rotation, responsiveness, and single-lap speed needed for qualifying.
Setup Notes
Helpful notes from our builders covering braking technique, throttle application, preferred racing lines, lane versatility, and what to expect from the car as the tires and track conditions develop.

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